When I was 18, and everyone around me was turning 18, I would go shopping almost every weekend for a new dress or outfit for the next birthday party and was desperate to have a brand new outfit each time. Unfortunately a wage of £4.10 an hour was not conducive to this lifestyle. But there was one shining light, to solve all my problems… Primark, it was the mecca of cheap dresses and ridiculously high heels, and it was perfect. We would even road trip (and by this I mean beg our parents to drive a few of us) to the nearest store to seek those affordable outfits. But as I have got older, and as all of my old cheap clothes have started to disintegrate, I am seeing the error of my ways. Primark may be one of the cheapest stores, but they are definitely not the only culprits as the entire fashion industry, whether designer or high-street, promotes a throw-away society and a linear economy. Fashion is a key part of our society, and has always been a way to express identity or make a statement, and although you may look fabulous, the environment is suffering greatly at the hands of our fashion choices.
Environmental Impacts
The clothing industry is said to produce as many greenhouse gasses as the global fleet of airplanes, and by 2050 the fashion industry will have used a quarter of the worlds carbon budget. The contribution to deforestation from textiles production from clearing land for farming, and using wood pulp to create viscose and rayon fabrics acts to worsen the carbon footprint by removing a vital carbon sink. On top of this, the growth of cotton in particular and dyeing processes greatly affect the water quality and supply in many lower-income countries where textile production has been outsourced. Furthermore, the throw-away mentality of fast-fashion and the idea of not being seen in the same thing twice, results in 235 million items of clothing ending up in landfill per year in the UK. Landfills are already reaching capacity, and many of the cheaper clothes we throw away are made from synthetic materials which will never biodegrade.
Many brands are starting to take responsibility for their impacts and striving to meet circular economy models for the fashion industry. The graphic below, from the Ellen MacArthur foundation illustrates how the industry can help to create a more sustainable economy as part of their Make Fashion Circular initiative.
Unfortunately, many huge players in fashion have not made enough effort to meet these aims, and without their help to make sustainable fashion more affordable there will still be many people who turn to fast-fashion when in a pinch. But there is hope, awareness of this issue is at an all-time high and companies such as H&M, Adidas and Nike have started to make eco-friendly changes such as sustainably sourcing cotton and using recycled polyester. Even the politicians are getting involved suggesting a 1p charge for every garment sold in high-street stores going towards a £35 million recycling scheme.
What Can You Do to Help?
We can see the industry is changing, but it will be a slow process until we see actual changes in the shops. So in the meantime, how can the individual help kick the habit of fast fashion, and stay on trend without harming the planet? Below are a few ways in which you can help:
By donating unwanted clothing you are contributing to the ‘National Wardrobe’ a concept which keeps clothing in circulation for others to enjoy rather than going to waste. Equally, charity shops should be your first port of call when shopping, they can take some hard work and dedication but it's worth it!
Similarly, share your actual wardrobes with friends and family. Although this may be tricky when sizing is involved it can make a huge impact on your wallet and the environment, even if it is just for a necklace or a clutch bag, it is one less thing you have to buy, and helps to decrease demand.
Clothing rental companies can be a great option for weddings, black tie events or red-carpets if you're lucky enough to be invited! Try rental sites for fancy frocks like these: https://www.girlmeetsdress.com; https://www.wearthewalk.co.uk
Recycle/Up-cycle what you have: add patches or embellishments, repair holes and zips, alter hems, re-heel shoes, ragging… the possibilities are endless! Work with what you have first, before you buy.
Be selective, I have written before about the concept of dollar voting and it applies to the fashion industry more than ever. Shop locally, and support ethical and sustainable companies and the market will follow. Opt for higher-quality items where possible as these will last longer and are less likely to need replacing or repairing in the future.
Look at the labels of what you are buying, where was it made? How far did it travel to get to you? Is it made of synthetic fabric or organically grown cotton? Try and make conscious decisions in every step of your outfit choice.
Catch your microfibers in the wash. This is something I have only recently become aware of, but new mesh laundry bags and fiber-catching balls mean any synthetic microfibers can be caught and can be properly disposed of rather than leaking out into the water system. Below are some brands for these great inventions: http://guppyfriend.com/en/; https://coraball.com/
References:
- For more information on the 1p charge and information on the environmental impacts of fast-fashion.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-47156853 - Quiz: Are your clothes damaging the environment?
- A succinct article outlining the main problems in the fashion industry
- For more information on the Make Fashion Circular initiative